[Scott here with another guest blog post. Today I hope to save you some time and heartache by giving you the nuts and bolts of editing large volume shoots…]
Painful memories I have: My first breakup, my first deceased pet, my first time moving, but perhaps most painful of them all is this; my first attempt at editing 15,000 photos. Such overwhelming volume, such slow progress, so many similar photos. Why, oh why, did they ever create the motor drive!?
The pain from the breakups, pets and moves have only faded a bit, but the pain of volume editing is almost entirely gone. Call me masochistic, but I think I actually like editing big shoots. On the surface the challenge is the same as it ever was, but years of photo editing for one of the heaviest trigger fingers in the industry have honed my skills. And like a young ninja student who feels the sting of every misstep but grows to be a master, almost untouchable, oblivious to pain, I have conquered the edit. You can too.
For some of you this will be old news. But I am sure there are many who are like I once was; new to fast cameras and professional editing software. Trying to figure out how to take an avalanche of data and come out the other end with “final selects”. If you’ve never done it, it seems easy until you try. If you’ve done it a lot, it probably is easy. But if you’re somewhere in the middle it just might feel overwhelming. Perhaps I can be of some assistance by giving you a few tricks I’ve learned along the way.
The foundation of my editing process is (drumroll)….Rating With Stars!!! I know, it’s not groundbreaking. Aperture has stars, Lightroom has stars, Bridge has stars, iPhoto has stars. Almost every photo software on the planet has stars. That’s the beauty. Simple, effective, universal. Aperture is my editing platform of choice (UPDATE: when Apple killed Aperture, we moved to Lightroom as our default professional editor – we have always been very happy with both platforms and now we’re running almost entirely on LR in the pro workspace….), but this applies across the board. There are 5 stars available. Let me tell you what I do with each of them, hopefully you’ll find some wisdom in the why of the 5* editing system.
1* – Pace: Full Speed. Main Criteria: Is it garbage? Before you even think about starting your first pass through your shoot, do yourself a favor: let the software build all of it’s previews and caches. I know it can be hard to wait for this process, you feel like you’re wasting time, but trust me, it’s worth the wait. Why? Because the first pass through your big shoot should fast. I mean FAST.
You’re not trying to pick the winners, you’re not even trying to pick the contenders. Here’s a metaphor for you. They let 20,000 people qualify for the Boston Marathon. All you have to do in this first pass is pick the people who definitely won’t finish. The guy in the Santa suit, the lady drinking beer, the dude with a broken leg. Give a star to any photo that might make the cut. Don’t look closely, just glance. Is it way out of focus? Is it way under or over exposed? Is the model yawning, blinking, or otherwise looking at their worst? No star for you. Is it a remotely decent picture? Then it goes on to the next round.
2* – Pace: Full Speed. Main Criteria: Does it look OK? Grab a drink of water, quick snack, and then right back up to full speed. Filter your images to show only the images with at least 1 star. Now you’re only looking at images that aren’t horrible, but there’s plenty of room between horrible and average. Volume editing is an elimination process. This is your last chance to pull out pictures you never want to see again.
If you’re looking at high-action motor-drive images, this is the time to pull out the stuff that’s obviously before or after the key frames. Remember, do not worry about picking the key frames here, just dump the ones that aren’t by leaving them at one star. If you’re looking at portraiture or lifestyle shots, you’re trying to get rid of all of the shots where the subject is looking kinda bad. Weird pose, funny face, etc. No more stars for these guys.
3* – Pace: Cruising. Main Criteria: Is it pretty nice? Filter again, just show 2* or greater. You’ve been through these images twice now, you’re starting to get a feel for how the shoot turned out. You’ve probably even started to sorta like some of the photos. It’s time for these photos to get the nod. This move from 2-3 stars is probably where I invest the largest amount of time. You’re still looking at a lot of pictures, and you want to be somewhat critical at this step. The 3* edit is the first one we’ll consider showing a client, and It’s where we draw the line between photos we don’t want to wade through and images that are all generally viable. Look briefly at every photo and ask yourself: Do I like this photo? If the answer is no, no more stars. If the answer is yes, it gets the 3 star rating.
4* – Pace: Calculated. Main Criteria: Is it nice when you look closely? Set your filter to show 3* or better. If you were sorting through people here, now is when you would be deciding who you would consider a good friend, and who you think is just a nice person. You would be happy to introduce your good friends to your clients or your peers, you’re confident that they will make a good impression. You’ve spent enough time with them and examined their traits closely enough to know that they are good solid folk. It’s the same way with 4* images. If you’re not sure about focus, take the time to zoom in at 100% and make sure it’s good. If you’re not sure about exposure, click over to your adjustments tab and knock the exposure slider around a bit, make sure you’ve got detail where you need it. You’re making a commitment to these images, they are the elite of this shoot. Choose them carefully.
5* – Pace: Slow and thoughtful. Main Criteria: Is it outstanding? These are the winners. They are perfect in every way. You want to blow them up and print them the size of a house. You want to put them on your website and in your portfolio. They don’t just meet the goals of this particular shoot, they meet the goals of you as a photographer. In order to choose which images make the jump it 5 stars, we’ll often take a number of our favorite 4* images into the adjustments tab on Aperture and start to play around with treatments. If the image starts to take on dazzling traits when some post production is applied, it’s a good contender for a five star rank.
Often times this five star designation is applied only as an in-house distinction. Everything that has received four stars is going to be shown to the client. It is often an enlightening exercise to have the client choose their favorites from the 4* edit, and independently do a edit of our own. It is interesting to see where the favorites sync up, and it is a good starting point to begin an engaging conversation with the client about which images are indeed the best of the whole shoot.
I hope that you have found some kernels of information that will reduce your suffering, and perhaps even tip the scales toward joy the next time you come home with a pocket full of memory cards.
I have a big interest in Workflow and Digital Asset Management, and it surprises me that you use 5 star ratings. Both dpworkflow.org which is a fantastic resource on workflow, and The Dam Book, written by the world’s leading expert on Digital Aset Management, Peter Krogh, recommend only using 1,2 and 3 stars (OK, maybe 4 if you are Chase Jarvis) when you are rating your images. The simple reason behind this is that you should leave room to grow as a photographer. Where do you go when you use 5 stars all the time. When your photos get even better, what are you going to do then? I think there’s just no need to go past 4 stars (and reserve a little humility for the future) 😉
Sorry, of course I meant dpbestflow.org
Geoff, I think it’s hard if not impossible to “standardize” ratings over the years. If I use the rating system Scott wrote about and continue to use it, it will imply that as I become a better photographer, the 5-star shots will have a higher quality than the 5-star shots of x years ago. Comparing those shots will show for the difference in growth as a photographer.
Geoff,
For me, the simple act of editing the kind of volume we’re talking about here makes it improbable to get all of our editing done in just three passes. If we’re editing 15,000 images, I’ll have at least 1,000 images with 3* which are all quite viable in some way. I need to have more room to further refine. As with everything in this field, to each his own.
Hey Scott,
Thanks for such a great little tutorial.
Was wondering if you guys ever compared (head-to-head) the NEF to TIFF conversions between Aperture and Nikon NX2.
Thanks,
Brant
Brandt,
We have used the NX2 software when working with the D7000 and D90 before there was support for them in 3rd party sofware. The RAW conversions are quite good, but I don’t feel that there is enough difference to justify the inconvenience of working outside of Aperture for the conversion step.
First- It’s awesome that you guys are blogging a lot recently. Can’t tell you how much I enjoy and appreciate hearing from your team.
Second- Wow is it cool to hear the big dogs break down sorting through 15k photos into something that’s humanly possible. Granted it still requires a ton of effort and hard work….but there’s not any magic spell behind using Stars to rate images. Systematic and consistent. Simple. Reminds me not to overthink.
Keep up the great work!
Thanks Scott.
I’ve been doing exactly this for a few years now, and all i keep thinking is what did we do before programs like lightroom/aperture ?!
I mean, i remember long editing times (in photoshop), opening and saving several different copies of files through Photoshop (RAW, edited PSD and then final tiff or jpeg)
I’m loving these guest posts from you Dude, & the rest of the guys, keep em’ comin’ 🙂
Well, now there’s a duh-huh moment to roll with!!! Great job explaining it to make it make sense to me. That’s not always an easy task.